Day 2 Cricklade to Lechlade

I was thinking back on yesterday's blog and decided that I haven't switched on my philosophical mode just yet. So, some thoughts.

It seems to me that country folk don't know about dog poo bags. I've come across more dog mess than I would wish. Is it a case of "Oh well, it'll biodegrade out here in the great outdoors" or "No-one will know, or see"?

And the animals of the non-domesticated variety are so not used to humans the way those urban creatures are. Herons normally simply stand still until you move on. Or if they're really not bothered, they carry on stalking that fish. Yesterday, I saw one and it flapped off in a great hurry and I was nowhere near it. Today, a deer appeared on the path ahead of me. I had enough time to take a photo before it hopped it. In Richmond Park, I would have been waiting for its 30 mates to follow along. Mind you, something that may have been a grouse got its revenge today. Pootling along a bridleway through a field, a sudden flapping right next to me was quite a fright. I hadn't seen the bird but it had seen me. So had the other two that took off a few seconds later (possibly female not so brightly coloured). I didn't swear, honestly.

Today? It turned into a day of four churches! It was raining first thing so I decided that I would take a look at St Sampson's Church in Cricklade before I left town. Majestic, strong, lots of stone, not many memorials and knick knacks considering its great age. It was worth the visit. The sun came out, I nipped into Tesco Express for my lunch and was off on the path again. After a while, I was starting to think that well yes, the non-rolling scenery is very pleasant to look at but dare I think it's boring? Then I saw a fabulous bright blue dragonfly with black wings. There was the incident with the 'grouse', more swans, cygnets, ducks and ducklings. I chatted to a couple of fellow Thames Path walkers. They got the blame for a user error with my garmin. I missed about 45 minutes of plodding and mileage having seemingly forgotten to set it going again after the stop to visit St Mary's Church at Castle Eaton. Small, pretty, old. Church number two of the day.

I must say that walking a river route does remove the likelihood of there being many hills. After a while, my legs were groaning if I had to go up a few steps over a bridge! Being off-road means it's softer on the sole but on the other hand (or foot) traipsing through wet grass leads to, you guessed it, wet feet. If you know me, you'll have heard me expounding the joys of technical clothing. It does dry out almost as quickly as it gets wet. I tried not to feel smug when one of the chaps I was talking to told me he was already on his third pair of socks for the day. He did seem to have some nice soggy, woolly ones.

The Book for today's walk strongly suggests that one bit is far too dangerous as it goes down the side of the A361 for a mile, where the national speed limit applies and is used. I was trying to delay my arrival at Lechlade as this was a fairly short day of (about) 10 miles, so I sat myself down by the side of the busy road to eat my lunch. No drink though, I didn't fancy finding a place to do a Paula. The traffic was fast moving but with space between the vehicles. I crossed and headed to the Inglesham turn-off. Despite the dire warnings, there was a path or grass verge the whole way and it was possible to cross again without getting run over.

At Inglesham, the church of St John the Baptist is an absolute delight. It is small and 12-13th century. Some restoration work was paid for by William Morris. There is decayed plasterwork with wall paintings still evident, amazing box pews and a Jacobean pulpit. If you're ever in the area do pop in. 

From Inglesham, it was but a stroll to Lechlade, where I took the New Inn Hotel by surprise with my early arrival. The compromise was they bought me coffee and cake in the place next door and I promised to give them time to sort my room out. It seemed to be being re-built. Coffee, chocolate brownie and the sudoku done, I went off in search of church number 4 which was only yards away. 

St Lawrence, Lechlade was completed in 1476 but there may have been a place of worship on the site since the 7th century AD. The exterior of the church is impressive with its spire but the inside reminded me of St Sampson's. The graveyard was so beautiful that it inspired the poet Shelley to write some stanzas, and there are one or two paths named after him. Indeed, the graveyard was fascinating, revealing so much of local lives and families gone by. What was sad was that some areas are overgrown and had been newly strimmed of their weeds while others were still in the wilderness.

I found a sweet shop which I entered out of academic interest only, of course, but then found that they sold yummy ice-cream  and I walked out with a double scoop flavour combo of caramel fudge and clotted cream and peanut butter. This I ate on the way to the pub situated down by the Ha'penny Bridge.

Lovely day.